Gimnasia y Ceremonias Mayas

The trainer at the gym killlled me the other day. As I walked home all I could think was “man I hope the water is back so I can shower.” Some of you have expressed shock and confusion when I have told you that I joined a gym. Am I really in Peace Corps or have I moved to the other side of the country without telling you? Here in lies the dichotomy of my town here in Guate. We have a gym with a trainer who will make you work your glutes ‘til you can’t walk home, but when you finally make it home, will you have water or will you remain stinky and sweaty?
I live not too far from the capital, have a hot shower, and an internet café on the corner of my street. But the school that I work in only about 25 minutes away doesn’t have running water, there are children who don’t have shoes, and toothbrushes seem a rare commodity. Time to get creative when teaching about personal hygiene.The mix between the modern and the traditional, the urban and the rural is part of my daily experience. As I walk down the cobble-stone streets I am passed by both horses and mini-buses that look like imperial death troopers (the cars, not the horses). In the market one can find both Abercrombie shirts, and guipils of every color.
Yesterday we got a unique opportunity to experience the more traditional side of Guatemala, participating in a Mayan ceremony. It was a special ceremonial day for the Maya- a new year. Because of the special day there were many others at the ruins of Iximche performing their own ceremonies when our group of 45 gringos and one Mayan priest showed up. All in all it was a beautiful, but long ceremony, performed in the indigenous Mam language. Although there are many Maya that still perform ceremonies such as this for a number of occasions and reasons, there are also many Mayan descendents who no longer identify with this aspect of their culture, usually for religious reasons. For example, there are teachers in our school who use the Mayan tradition of Nahuales (signs of the Mayan calendar that describe possible characteristics and energies according to one’s date of birth) to help children become better behaved, participate more, etc., but who neither identify nor agree with the traditions behind Mayan ceremonial worship. It’s been really interesting learning about Mayan traditions and their relation to the present day Mayan population. I have even been able to learn a few words in Kakchiquel from my family and the kids at school!